Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Finish up the rear teardown

1967 Ford Mustang Fastback trunk disassembly
After the mess of getting the fuel tank out, all that's left in the trunk is the trunk lid, the taillights, taillight wiring, rear ribbed panel, rear bumper, rear valence, and on and on....it turns out, when you take a car apart, there are a lot more parts that you might think. But, I took my time and tried to shoot pics of all the pieces. I'm also learning that I need to review my pics a little more before I call them good. I now notice the shots that are fuzzy and yellowed. It's too bad I'm quite a ways past this point, so I'll just apologize now for these early pics. 

So we start at this point. Still not too far gone.

The bumper is held in by a bracket on each side, two bolts each. At the far right, you can see one of the special spacer/nut combos that are holding the ribbed panel in place. Seems I forgot to get good shots of that coming off. I'm learning...

After the brackets are unbolted from the body, my Apprentice pulls the bumper off the car...

...but don't yank that wire that connects the license plate light!

Blam-o! Bumper is off. 

The license plate light. This is a great example of a piece that will get stripped down, cleaned, rewired, and reassembled..it's an afternoon project all in itself.

There's a licence plate pad held on by a couple screws. I need to look this up and see if' it's supposed to be here, because it looks a little out of place.

Here's my Apprentice removing the screws that hold the rear valence in place. There's a hidden bolt on each side as well.

Ta-da. Rear valence is out. See, anyone can take a car apart....

The wires to the back-up lights in the valence had been cut long ago. And like most stuff on this car, taking it apart reveals lots of crud and reinforces the fact that my original plan of a rolling restoration was a terrible idea

Next out are the quarter panel extensions. Just a few nuts on each and (in theory) a screw on the outside. Ours are in pretty iffy shape. And like the front headlight buckets, they're made of pot metal, which I'm pretty sure limits repair options. 


And finally the trunk lid. Look closely and you'll see two bolts per hinge and a wire for the trunk lamp. One of the nice surprises about the fastback is the trunk hinges are coil springs instead of torsion rods. Not having to mess with torsion rods decreases my odds of puncture wounds and bleeding on the garage floor by 35%!

The only real items to strip off the lid are the trunk lock latch and the lamp.

And here's the trunk lid off the car. I'm surprised to see no paint under the hinges. Also, no jacking instruction stickers. Factory work or replacement? Hmmmm.....

I said earlier that Vintage Burgundy is a polite way of saying 'purple'. Here's the lid in the sun next to my actual red Saturn Vue (RIP - Rest In Parts)... Friends, that's purple.

Ahhh, that's more like it. Stripped to parade rest. 

Next up is the dash teardown, and then it's time for some tool shopping. It was hard to figure out what I really needed to get this job started, so I'll share the details of what I ended up with and why.

Friday, October 17, 2014

Junk in the trunk (and rust, and carpet, and foam, and glue...)

1967 Ford Mustang Fastback gas tank removal Removing the gas tank from an old Mustang isn't really that hard, even for an amateur like me. Part of what made this job sort of memorable was looking around at how bad the trunk area looked before, and how much worse it looked afterwards. There's a lot of surface rust it looks like, but the other nasty part is all the carpet, foam, and all the liquid-nails-like glue that was holding it in place. Remember, these were cheap cars. Before the Eleanor craze of the past decade or so, the fastbacks were not the most popular choice (based on production numbers), either when they were new or even years later when they were well 'used'. Now, they're sort of hard to come by, and they all seem to command a bit of a price premium. It's a fair bet to say very few people are installing residential-grade carpet with Liquid Nails in their classic fastbacks nowadays!

Note to fellow noobs: you need a catch-can for the gas when you drain it - that's obvious. What's not obvious is that there was way more gas than I anticipated when we drained it. My advice - use a container that's obviously too big, because you'll want margin in case your ability to estimate the volume of gas based on 'slosh' is as bad as mine.

So take a look at how we did the gas tank removal, and our first look at the horror that's hiding in the trunk.

Let's just peel back that trunk liner and ... oh, dear...

The trunk mat was covering this mess. Please note the carpet that is glued to the wheelhouses. I've already peeled the carpet off the inside of the quarter panel to find foam and glue.

Looking at the back of the taillight panel we see more glue, foam, rust, and lots of seam sealer. There's even some exposed metal somehow.

Passenger side of taillight panel. More of the same...

It's pretty nasty all the way around. 

First step in making it better - take it all apart. Here's the drain on the tank. Get that catch can handy and twist the drain out. I don't have a picture of the gas draining as I was too busy scrambling for another container as my guess of 'a gallon or two' turned into 4 or 5 gallons. Some of it was fresh gas, but it looked more like slightly used oil when it came out. Safety note #2 - have a 5-gallon gas can or some other large sealed container to put your gas immediately after draining. I know it all sounds obvious, but when you have lots of bad gas just laying around you start to feel the urgency.

Now pop the fuel gauge sender line connector and the fuel pick-up line. No return line since it's an old carbureted car. No fuel injection here!

My Apprentice wrenching on the bolts holding the tank in. Liquid Wrench a few times in the days before we pulled the tank helped - no broken bolts. I had 13 bolts holding the tank in the car. The replacement kits have 11 bolts. I'm thinking I have 'extra' bolts (and holes) in this car.

Next is the filler neck, which is mated to the tank with a length of rubber filler pipe and some clamps.

We have the pop-open gas cap - 4 screws hold in on the outside, but notice that the lower right screw isn't there - it's just a bump...

...because the 5th screw for the gas cap is only accessible from the trunk.

Out comes the filler neck. Keep this and clean it up if possible. You wouldn't guess it's a $35 part just looking at it.

And after a little thump/bump/push from below to separate the tank from what little seam sealer was holding it in place, it comes right out.

"Aw, man, it's as nasty as the floor pans inside the car! This was supposed to be well protected!"

(The trunks are common trouble spots on first gen Mustangs. Prospective buyers would be wise to spend some quality time looking around in here before laying out cash. In our case, we knew it was gross looking, but we figured it was mostly surface rust.)

Looking towards the drivers' side taillight.

Remove the fuel gauge sender line and grommet from the trunk sidewall.

'Extra' piece of rubber weatherstripping. Pretty sure it's not supposed to be here.

And, lastly, the electric fuel pump. These cars originally had mechancial fuel pumps mounted directly to the engine. On mine, there is no mechanical pump, just a cover plate, and instead gas is sent to the motor via this 'assembly' mounted with two bolts under the floor towards the back of the car. The electric pump plus the slapper bars and (rumored) 3.89 gears in the rear end tell me the original owner was clearly into 'spirited driving'. Maybe those mouse nests were made of chewed-up speeding tickets? What's really funny, at least in hindsight, is how much trouble those two mounting holes that were left by this fuel pump will cause me in the near future. On the bright side, I'll get better at butt-welding 20 gauge sheet metal.

All of this gets replaced - mounting hardware and filler neck hose - at about $20. It gets more pricey if you need a new filler neck ($35) and pop-open gas cap ($100!). Remember - save your parts!

Except this. Don't save this. This is gross. Flush it with water so you don't have explosive vapors coming out of  it for days, take lots of pics, and then toss recycle it.

And toss this, too. We're going back to a stock mechanical fuel delivery system. At least, that's the plan right now.  ["I will NOT use aftermarket fuel injection, I will NOT use aftermarket fuel injection, I will NOT use aftermarket fuel injection..."]

Sunday, October 12, 2014

Interior Disassembly, part 2 - Interior trim panels and headliner

1967 Ford Mustang Fastback interior disassembly More stuff needs to come out before we have a good look at the inside of this car. All the seats and carpets are out, but the trim panels and headliner are still in place. So, let's pull those out and see what's behind it all.

[This took place over several weekends because of all the pics and notes we were taking.]

Fastback interior trim

There are trim pieces around waist of the interior in the rear. They cover the joints of the upper and lower trim panels. Like all pieces in this car, they are not a true 'black', but actually 'charcoal black', a very dark grey metallic paint used in Mustangs in 1967 (possibly others). Be sure to note this when refinishing parts in a 'black' interior car.

Fastback interior trim

Here, my helper removes the screws holding the trim pieces.

Fastback interior trim

Same thing on the other side. In the light of day, you can start to see the years of accumulated dirt, dust, and (I think) cigarette residue all over the interior panels. The upper panels are smooth, but the lower panels are textured - which makes cleaning and refinishing a challenge.

Fastback interior trim

In the Fastbacks, there are two metal trim pieces over the roof in front of the rear glass. Under this piece is the rear bracket for the upper console.

Fastback interior trim

Upper trim is out - the headliner has some minor punctures all over, but this one is the biggest.

Fastback interior trim

And now the upper vent side panels can come out, passenger side first. These are made of fiberglass, but the vent inserts are metal/chrome pieces. And mine are pitted pretty bad. Since it's very expensive to rechrome parts, I may just by a good reproduction.

Fastback interior trim

Drivers' side vent panel comes out just as easy.

Fastback interior trim

Here they are, ready for cleaning, close-up pics, and packing.

Fastback trap door

Next up, removal of the trap door in the back. This panel separates the trunk from the passenger compartment and, in some models, can be unlatched and swing up out of the way. The latch and the two hinges are all that hold it in place.

Fastback trap door trim

Badda-bing, it's out! See, anyone can take a car apart! The panel is metal on the back face and will need refinishing. The front is hard plastic I think, and textured like the rest of the lower interior trim. A lot of these originals are found with speaker cut-outs in them. I'm lucky mine is in one piece.

Fastback interior trim removal

Now let's get the upper console and headliner out...three screws hold the mirror in place. For the console, two bright shiny screws up front....

Fastback interior upper console removal

...an two more in the back are all that hold it in place. There's a ground wire attached to one of the forward holes, and the power lead comes through a slit in the headliner above the console.

Upper console is out. I love the brushed aluminium look of the console - after I spent half an hour removing years of cigarette residue off of it with Never-Dull. The vinyl and foam is in good shape, but the map lights will need some attention. Now, just start cutting that headliner out along the front of the roof line... 

Fastback interior headliner removal

...and we find our second mouse nest hiding just inches above the drivers head. Looks like the varmints used the roof insulation to make a home. Another reason to be wearing gloves and a respirator while doing the tear-down.

Fastback interior headliner removal

The headliner is held in by three main color-coded rods installed in specific holes in the roof rail. Many pictures were taken, I'm only showing one. 

Fastback interior headliner removal

There it is in all its smelly, nasty, mouse-pee stained glory. Remember when I said you should keep all your old parts. We're gonna make an exception for this one. Bagged and tossed. 

Fastback interior console removal

Here's the forward bracket for the upper console...

Fastback interior rusty hardware

...and a close-up shot with an ugly truth - all the hardware (screws, bolts, brackets) in the interior of the car looks like this up close. It's surface rust, and it's starting to spread to adjoining metal. The hardware can be cleaned up, but it's pitted and strips easily when being removed. As a result, I've got a lot of hardware I'm not crazy about reusing. Plus, spending an afternoon cleaning old screws, will make you rethink this whole adventure. Thank goodness for AMK's model-specific master hardware kits. I bought small kit just to see what I should expect, and it's good stuff. So, I'll be back for more. You can find them in the catalogs for the majors like NPD, CJ's, etc.

Fastback interior headliner removal

Look! Smelly foam insulation pads between the headliner and the roof. Marginal utility, maximum nasty-smell factor. Gone. Modern replacements are available, so there's no need to keep this around.

Fastback interior headliner removal

Only the glue residue remains on the inside of the roof. If you look closely, you'll see surface rust at the very edge of the roof and then bare metal beyond that. Ford built up and THEN primed the roof assembly. Nice. It's funny to see the cost-saving measures in place for a mass-produced car like the Mustang. Sometimes we lose sight of the fact that these were effectively entry level cars and weren't built for a 50 year lifetime.

Fastback interior sholder belt removal

Shoulder belts are attached to the roof rail. Like the floor belts, they'll need replacing. Would YOU trust a seat belt that was half a century old?

Fastback interior trim removal

Lower rear trim - worn, scratched, faded, dirty - is held in by some screws up front and some bolts along the bottom. 

Fastback interior trim removal

And here we have mouse nest #3 - and it's a monster.  It was mostly jute insulation from the car, but I also found scraps of strip club match books and something that looked like little pieces of silk. Under all this mouse nest, no kidding, was an unopened box of novelty condoms (which I failed to photograph for some reason).  How did it get in there, I can only imagine. If this car could talk, I bet it would only be allowed on air after 10 PM.

Fastback interior trim removal

Drivers side comes out just as easy - but no mouse nest on this side.

Fastback interior trim removal

The rear corner trim has upper and lower parts to it as well. 

Fastback interior trim removal

Fastback interior vent removal

And once all that is out, all that's left is the fresh air vent assemblies on both sides. You can tell even behind all the trim, there is a lot of dirt/dust/grime all over.

Fastback interior vent removal

Passenger side air vent assembly. The trim pieces are mounted to the little angled black brackets on the car structure you can see along the edge by the glass. All those came out, were marked, photographed, and bagged for later reuse.

Fastback interior vent removal

Popping out the air vent is a matter of 8-ish bolt per side. Beyond is the exterior vent assembly.

Fastback interior vent removal

The exterior vent assembly (which is really 3 pieces all sandwiched together) is held in by five nuts. 

Fastback interior stripped out

And now it's stripped. Here's what we're left with.

Fastback interior stripped out original floors

The rear floor is an unholy mess. 

Fastback interior stripped out

The rear of the cabin is better, just dirty. There is precious little evidence of rust so far. Astute readers will notice the gas tank is missing. Less perceptive readers will wonder why there is a sunroof in the bottom of the car. That's next week's post - trunk and gas tank tear down.

Fastback interior stripped out

Where the big mouse nest was is pretty rough looking, but it all passed the 'stab-it-with-a-screwdriver' test. I considered just leaving it like this, but then decided that would be less interesting for you. My brother says I make everything complicated, and I would hate to start making my life easier now. So it'll all need to be cleaned, primed and readied for paint. Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing - right?